Down Under

This is probably the last road trip I will ever take along the California Central Coast. As much as I dislike Southern California, I LOVE the Central Coast.

Ol' '95 Is Happy to Be in Another Campground

Fortunately, it was warm enough to camp for two nights at Refugio State Beach.

And WHAT a Campground

There were about a dozen campers on Sunday night. Most were gone on Monday, but a few more joined on Monday.

Sunrise

Sunrise II

So many nice chats with other campers and day visitors. Had dinner two nights with one couple. Only one lady was a bit strange when she got off on a 20 minute discourse about the physical reactions she had to electric meters and modern technology. I had to tell her to stop when she started to give her opinions on autism and vaccinations. But who knows........(well, secretly, I think I do!)

Two Days of This

Tuesday AM, I kept waiting for the sun to rise so I could get up. It seemed late in showing its rays, so I got up and realized it was going on 7 AM.
I learned then from fellow campers with constant power that the fires had started in Ventura County, just south of the campground.
The heavy smoke on the horizon was blocking the sunrise.

Where's the Sunrise

Sunrise III

Smoke on the Far Western Horizon

As I write this, the fires still rage and have, indeed, increased even further south.

I had already confirmed a property rental further North. I was sorry. I would have been happy camping here for several more days.

Welcome Back to the USA

Daughter-in-Law Stephanie made sure I was welcomed back to America by gifting me with all Made in America products: everything from Herbes de Provence grown in Lapeer, Michigan to an American Express card. (somehow, I deleted the good picture I took of my loot.)

I Don't Want to Help LaLa Open Her Presents

They also invited grandson Bazil to join us and I picked him up at LAX 4:30 on Friday evening.

Pals

LaLa's Blessed

Last year, I bought Carley Rose an Advent calendar box, so we started the tradition one day overdue on December 2. As long as we were starting a tradition and together, they also gifted me. I also allowed Bazil to open all his Advent gifts and Carley Rose to open her gift from Santa.

What's This

It's Looking Interesting

The Package Is Interesting

Which is Best Babydoll or Bluetooth Earphones

Have We Missed Anything Important

Bazil and I weren't really tired of one another, but getting to the airport early Sunday morning was a journey in itself.
We arose around 5:30 and got our act together (also had to get up BJ, S, and CR). I followed Google Maps to LAX instead of using my better judgement. Turned out that the ramp from the 101 to the 405 was closed for maintenance, so we had to wend our way around to get on. Then, LAX is closing up most of the C parking lot which is the only place I can park the van. Between my frustration, Google Maps, LAX usual poor signage, and no open parking spots both of our nerves were frayed.
At 6:30 AM, Bazil began asking me "Do you think we are going to make it?"
By 8:30 AM while standing in the TSA line, I hollered, "If you ask me that one more time........!"

This Flight Can't Leave Soon Enough

This Flight Can't Leave Soon Enough II

We made it. We still separated as good pals.
Bazil on his way back to Denver to continue getting on the Wheat Ridge HS Academic Excellence rolls and to play in Jazz Band and Orchestra and Paula to head up the California Central Coast to continue her travels.

Flying into Saigon

It's happened. I've hit the wall on travel.

My Room at the Fist Hotel HCMC

Night View

Fortunately, I've booked a hotel for the last two days in HCMC where I am scheduled to fly out on Monday at 11 AM.
Interesting enough, I arrive in Los Angeles at 11 AM on Monday.
I guess there really is such a thing as time travel.
In the taxi, I noticed this woman and child (about 9 months old) on the motorbike. Notice the special child seat that is placed between the mother's legs. It was obviously designed for the bike. She also had a "dashboard toy" the baby was playing with as they rode. Both baby and toy were swaddled in a fine mesh fabric to keep them free of the street soil.

How to Ride Baby on the Motorbike

I think this is a much safer way to ride than the father I saw with a 2-year-old between his legs with no restraint or helmet, The father was guiding the bike with one hand and texting with his phone in the other hand, Baby just rode along.
In the entire time in the traffic of The Philippines, Vietnam, and Cambodia, I have seen only one accident. That was in Hoi An where two or more motorbike riders swerved on the wet pavement and fell with a crash. I heard it, but by the time I arrived everyone was up and riding away.

I am determined to organize all my photos and log everything I still remember before I arrive in LA.
If I wait until I get back in the States, I know I will never get around to it. (Uh oh, I arrived in LA 24 hours ago and am now just updating this!)

I thought I was making pretty good progress on my photos, so I decided to take a taxi ride into the heart of the city. To stroll through the Vietnam History Museum and the [[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saigon_Zoo_and_Botanical_Gardens|Botanic Gardens.

Mistake. 44,000 Viet Duong ($20) and it was hot and crowded on a Sunday. The museum was not spectacular, It appeared the exhibits were set up in 1950, but perhaps it was 1980.
One thing that The Philippines has over Vietnam is the skill and wherewithal to create interesting historic exhibits. Some might be a bit rough, but they are generally more than cases of religious icons with one word descriptions in three languages.

Schoolchildren at HCMC Museum et al

Troops of school children were attending.
A teacher brought his group over to talk with me in English. The teacher asked all the questions and provided the answers even f I directed a question to the children. When the teacher walked away, some of the children hung back to chat for a while. Their English was better than the teacher's.
Of course, they had to ask "How old are you?'
And of course, they were surprised when I told them.

Later at the hotel, I was sitting at the sidewalk coffee shop when 3 neighborhood girls came up to talk to me in English, I was surprised how well all of them spoke. Ages 5, 7, and 11. They, too, were surprised at my age.
I was not able to learn what their parents did, where they were, and how they learned to speak English so well, I knew they wanted me to either give them so money or something to eat, so I took them into the restaurant and purchased 3 juices to go.

My Only Friends in HCMC

After 1 month in Vietnam, I discovered they have supermarkets! This one was just a 2 minute walk from my hotel. I thought all shopping was done at little neighborhood vendor shops and at the local fresh market!

Scooter Parking

Supermarket in Vietnam Who Knew

Time to Decorate

Just Like Shopping in the USA

I guessdthis has prepared me to get back to life in The States.

I have four days remaining in Vietnam. The drive from Hoi An to Da Nang followed the coast. Every mile is resort with recognizable names like Four Seasons and Hilton. I was not expecting this. If you check on Trivago, you'll find over 1000 hotels in Da Nang.

I am getting a bit weary, but Da Nang is touted as a place to visit to realize the changes and vibrancy of Vietnam. I rented at the Babylon Garden for two reasons: It had a kitchenette so I could practice my new cooking skills and hang out at the beach that is touted as one of the 10 best.

A Room to Chill

Open Air Shower

As soon as I arrived, I walked to the market to get some fresh fish. It was the middle of the afternoon, so all the meat and fish vendors were gone for the day. It was a good thing. When I checked out the supplies in my kitchen, I realized they were a bit sparse. I had a full set of new, unused pots but no knife. I found my way to a mini mart.

This Is NOT a Jungle Rat

Clerk at the MiniMaet

I bought some snacks and wine, With what the mini bar in my room supplied, I cooked a styrofoam noodle bowl,

Night View from My Balcony

It was raining the next morning. The temperature ha dropped at least 15 degrees, After perspiring like mad for over two months, I found taking an open-air shower to be too chilly!
This is not the busy season for the beaches, but they are still building more in my part of town. Not as fancy as the resorts in the country, however.

Construction

Everywhere Construction

At Least 1000 Hotels

I decided to walk to the beach in the rain.
Walk along with me.

No Litter on This Beach

Deserted Beach

Mary in the Mist

First Handicap Access Since Australia

Another Engagement Photo Shoot

Every Tourist Needs a Photo

Hurrah No Horn Tooting

Parking Place without a Charger

A Google translation let me know they did not want a bunch of hustlers in this neighborhood. In addition to not worrying about anyone clinging to me, I didn't need to worry about anyone trying to shine or repair my shoes ( like in Hanoi) or sell me books (bookie?).

No Clinging To, Pulling Guests

I saw a sign for a hop on/off Coco bus. I asked a young man who was a greeter at a tourist beach restaurant. He pointed me to the bus stop. The sign indicated that the #12 and the Coco bus stopped there.
I waited one hour. Every 10 minutes a #12 tried to pick me up. I saw a Coco bus go in the other direction so I kept waiting, A taxi driver approached me at least three times saying he would drive me around town. I was too weary. I just wanted to sit on the bus and look. A further review of the web provided the info that this bus was a new feature. The taxi driver and I agreed it probably was not keeping up the route today.

Waiting for the Coco Bus in the Rain

I decided to return to the restaurant.
The greeter almost embraced me. "Lady, lady! Why didn't you get on the bus? I kept watching. You let all the buses pass. I was so worried about you!"
I kept trying to explain about the Coco hop on/off bus. My Vietnamese is nil and his English was too limited to understand. I just let him think I was strange and told him not to worry. I would sit in the restaurant and have a good meal.
I watched the surf rage and some fishermen have no luck.

Fishermen in the Surf

Folding Up Empty Net

Gathering Up the Empty Net

I returned to my hotel room to work on my photos. I am determined to get all my posting done and photos organized before I return to the States.

I found Grandma's Cooking School on line, The web site registration seemed a bit shaky, so I decided to take a walk and find the registration spot.

Register Here

Turned out they also own Heaven and Earth Bicycles, so I could register for the bike tour I wanted to take all on the same day.

Additionally, I signed up for the Market visit. Although I walked through the market at least twice a day every day during my stay, it was especially helpful to have so much explained. I will be able to brave the Asian market in Denver to find items to use in my new cooking skills.

No Tourists at the AM Market

Vegtable Stalls

These Are Banana Blossoms

Peel Off the Petals of the Banana Blossom

Purple Mangosteen

Morning Glory and Other Greens

More Fruit

Any Fruit You Want

I had asked the guide where all the produce came from. She explained about local farmers biking or driving in every morning. Some items that are not local are shipped to Vietnam, trucked to Hoi An, and delivered or picked up she clarified when I spied the pears, apples, and grapes with the PLU number on the bag.

They Couldn't Fool Me

We took a boat ride from Hoi An 30 minutes up the river to an island. We were told the name, but I didn't write it down and although I can locate it on Google Maps and Map Quest and Google Earth - nowhere is the name printed. Guess you need to know it to display it.

Another Boat Another Driver Another Bridge Another River

Hello Fishermen

By the time we got off the boat it had started to sprinkle, within an hour it was a steady downpour that lasted all day.

Location for the Cooking Class

A Little Trough and Dam to Keep Rain Out of Cooking Class

The island has only had electricity for the past 10 years. Grandma has lived on the island her entire life, We did not meet Granddaughter who cannot cook! Instead, our teacher was a neighbor and all the assistants were other family members. Our teacher was in her 30s and she remembers processing the rice and making the rice milk in the traditional methods she demonstrated.

We Tried All the Traditional Steps of Rice Prep

Gramdma Shows Us the Old Way

Milling

Making Rice Milk

Rice Hulls Used for Cooking Fire

Our teacher still cooks from scratch (as does everyone except that owner!) after working all day. Now, she buys hulled rice and uses a blender to make her rice milk.

After you have the batter, here are the steps to make rice paper for spring rolls:

1 Pour the Rice Milk on a Cloth Stretched over Boiling Water

2 Smooth It Out

3. Then Put On The Lid and Steam Cook for 45 sec

I Took This School Seriously

4. Wet the Stick and Fold the Paper Twice

5 They Won't Stick Together

5b Chop Chop

6 Wrap It Around Any Number of Goodies

Eating What We Made

We made several dishes. The ingredients for each were delivered to our station with every item we needed for preparation beautifully presented on a tray covered with banana leaves.

Ingredients for One Dish

Many restaurants and hotels in Hoi An offer cooking classes. I think most of them are a "sit and watch" event. I know this one is the only one held on a rural island and presented with such aplomb and all the accessories so beautifully presented.

Cooking School is Over

Before we go, the family shows us one of their homes and demonstrates their other business: weaving sleeping and floor mats by hand.
Grandma is 93 and has been doing this since she was 10 years old. It is now I learn that the Vietnamese put the sleeping mats directly on a wooden slab bed frame - not on a mattress. The homestays and hotels only have the mattresses for Western travelers.

Grandma and Son-in-Law Weave Mats

It's time for the three hour bike ride. And we're not going to let a little rain stop us.

Ready for the Bike Ride

Just Gotta Enjoy It

We stopped to see some local craftsmen along the way.

How to Make a Basket Boat

Mothrr of Peral Craftsman

A rice wine maker who also fattened up pigs on the fermented mash created from the still. Believe me, this place did not meet US health standards. You can feel relieved that they only sell locally and do not ship past Hoi An!

Buckets of Fermenting Rice

Making Riceshine

Final Production Point

Happy High Pigs

Ready for Market

The rain never stopped. It just kept getting harder. By the time evening was falling, even I was beginning to stop having fun.

Sandbags Replace Bridge

It Was a Little Wet

Good Thing I Had a Guide

The other nine riders had lost enthusiasm right after they tried rowing in the basket boats. I had skipped this activity and only watched. You have to sit on your knees and toes in the exact center and row in front of you; I can't even bend my knees let alone sit on them in a basket boat.
We were all glad to see the ferry, load up our bikes, and take the short ride across the river back to Hoi An.

Loading the Ferry